Photographing Northland

Travelling the Twin Coast Discovery Highway to capture Northland’s most iconic landscapes.

This visual journey follows Northland’s Twin Coast Discovery Highway, taking you through the Kauri Coast to the Far North, before returning via the Bay of Islands to Whangārei.  Over the past 30 years, we have explored Northland many times, but in March 2024, we dedicated two weeks to thoroughly revisit familiar spots and uncover new ones.  Travelling in our motorhome allowed us the flexibility to linger at key locations, ensuring we had the best opportunities for photography.

Map: The Twin Coast Discovery Highway

Northland – The Winterless North

Northland, often called the "Winterless North," is a captivating region in New Zealand known for its subtropical climate, rich Māori heritage, and breathtaking natural beauty.  As the northernmost region of the country, it offers an array of landscapes, from pristine beaches and sheltered harbours to ancient forests and rugged coastlines. Iconic destinations such as the Bay of Islands, Cape Reinga, and the Waipoua Forest showcase Northland’s diverse and stunning scenery.

For photographers, Northland presents an ever-changing canvas of light and landscape.  Whether capturing golden beaches, crystal-clear waters, or windswept dunes, every scene is visually rewarding.  The subtropical climate produces unique lighting conditions, ideal for golden hour and sunrise shots.

 

The Kauri Coast

Spanning Northland’s western region from Matakohe in the south to Hokianga Harbour in the north, the Kauri Coast boasts lush forests, scenic beaches, and tranquil lakes.  Our first stop after stocking up on supplies in Dargaville was Glinks Gully, a small settlement along the vast Ripiro Beach.  Stretching 107 kilometres, Ripiro is New Zealand’s longest drivable beach, yet we were fortunate to experience it without the intrusion of vehicles.

Ripiro Beach Sunset - Northland, New Zealand

Waipoua Forest and the Giants of the North

True to its name, the Kauri Coast is home to some of the largest and oldest kauri trees in the world. At its heart lies Waipoua Forest, a 25-square-kilometre expanse of untouched native flora. Here, the towering Tāne Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere stand as living testaments to resilience and history. South of Waipoua, the lesser-known Trounson Kauri Park offers another immersive experience in this ancient woodland.

Kauri Trunk - Trounson Kauri Park, Northland

Photographing these immense trees proved a challenge—their sheer scale and presence were difficult to convey through a lens.  Sometimes, the best way to appreciate nature’s grandeur is simply to stand in quiet awe.

Waiotemarama Falls - Northland, NZ

A delightful surprise was Waiotemarama Falls, nestled within the Waima Forest near Hokianga Harbour. A short bush walk led us to this 20-metre cascade, where the water tumbled into a crystal-clear pool, surrounded by lush greenery and moss-covered rocks.

Hokianga Harbour - Hidden Gem

At the northern end of the Kauri Coast lies Hokianga Harbour, where the windswept headland near Ōmāpere is home to the Arai Te Uru Reserve.  This reserve offers spectacular coastal views, featuring layers of windblown vegetation, intricately patterned sandy cliffs, and massive sand dunes in the distance.  In combination with the constantly shifting clouds that created a dynamic interplay of shadow and light, the reserve offered a rewarding experience for landscape photography.

Sculpted by the Elements - Hokianga Harbour, Northland

The sand cliffs at the Arai Te Uru Nature Reserve, shaped by wind and water over time, rise dramatically along the headland and provide stunning views of the Hokianga Harbour and the Tasman Sea.  The golden sand formations are a key feature of the area, adding to its rugged beauty and unique character.  These cliffs, combined with the expansive sand dunes and harbour entrance, create an environment that’s both visually impressive and geologically fascinating.

South to North Head - Hokianga Harbour, Northland

The Signal Station Track winds through hardy shrubs, including mānuka and harakeke (flax), which flourish in the salty sea air.  Along the way, you’ll encounter stunning coastal scenery, such as this view from South Head, overlooking the Hokianga Harbour entrance and the towering sand dunes of North Head.

Mānuka Sunrise at the Hokianga Harbour - Northland, NZ

A close-up of a mānuka tree silhouetted against the soft, warm hues of sunrise at the entrance to Hokianga Harbour, with the sand dunes of North Head rising in the background.

 

The Far North – Untamed Coastal Beauty

Crossing Hokianga Harbour via the Rawene ferry saved us a long drive and brought us to the heart of the Far North.  Just outside Ahipara, at the southern end of Ninety Mile Beach, we stumbled upon a private, Māori-run campground right by the beach that wasn’t on the map—a true gem offering a peaceful retreat on golden sands.  The following day, we continued to Kaitaia, the largest town in the Far North and a key gateway to the region, to explore and stock up on supplies.  The Far North, stretching across the northern tip of Northland, is arguably the most spectacular section of the coastal highway—the only road connecting Kaitaia to Cape Reinga.

Rarawa Beach – A White Sand Wonderland

One of our most anticipated stops was Rarawa Beach, known for its striking white silica sand.  The contrast between the brilliant sand, deep blue ocean, and windswept dunes created an ethereal landscape, particularly at sunrise and sunset.  Staying at a nearby DOC campsite allowed us to return for early morning light, capturing the beach in its most magical moments.

White Sand - Rarawa Beach, Northland, New Zealand

The pure white sand of Rarawa Beach creates a striking contrast against the vibrant blue of the sky and Pacific Ocean, complemented by the green grasses growing among the textured dunes.  The white sand is made up of fine silica particles, giving it its bright, almost sparkling appearance.  This unique sand composition is a result of the area’s geological processes, where the sand is derived from the erosion of surrounding rocks over thousands of years, particularly from ancient coastal shells.  The high silica content gives the sand a soft, powdery texture that is often cool underfoot, even in the heat of summer.

Dune in Twilight Glow - Northland

White sand dunes, softly textured with gentle ripples, reflect the fading light of the day.  In the distance, the blue Pacific Ocean merges with the delicate pastel hues of the horizon, creating a serene and timeless scene.  This is the tranquil beauty of Rarawa Beach at dusk.

Rarawa Beach is part of the traditional lands of the Ngāti Kuri iwi, who are the ‘guardians of the beach’, encouraging visitors (and rightly so) to respect the cultural significance of the area.  We camped at a nearby DOC ground and returned the next morning for sunrise.

Sunlit White Dunes - Northland, New Zealand

The sunrise was breathtaking.  The soft, golden light of dawn bathed the sand in a warm glow, accentuating the delicate patterns and contours of the rippling surface.  Combined with the rich colours of the sky, it created a joyful, timeless coastal scene—one of the standout photographic moments of the trip.

Cape Reinga – A Meeting of Oceans

No trip to Northland is complete without visiting Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua).  Perched atop steep cliffs, this sacred site marks the confluence of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean.  The dramatic collision of waters symbolises the meeting of male and female elements in Māori cosmology.

The Cape Reinga Lighthouse - Northland, New Zealand

The iconic Cape Reinga Lighthouse, built in 1941, is a popular landmark and a favourite spot for photography and selfies.  It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding seas.  Sunrise and sunset are ideal times to visit, providing an opportunity to capture the lighthouse silhouetted against the ocean and sky while also avoiding the crowds.

Crepuscular Rays above the Tasman Sea

Beyond the lighthouse, the coastal scenery is equally captivating.  The Te Paki Coastal Track winds through lush native vegetation, featuring hardy shrubs and iconic pōhutukawa trees, leading to coatal viewpoints that are ideal for capturing sunsets.

I experienced a spectacular, yet frustrating moment here.  I walked the track to position myself at a spot so that I would be able to see the lighthouse with sea stacks in the foreground while also being able to turn the camera towards Cape Maria Van Diemen.  It was a nice golden hour, but it got so much better when the sky exploded with light beams and colour.  It was a photographer’s dream.  Yet, the setting sun and most of the colour was right in between the subjects, and it was impossible to position myself better considering the terrain and distance.  So, I just ended taking photos of the clouds and sea.

Cape Maria van Diemen - Northland, New Zealand

Cape Maria van Diemen, a stunning and remote headland just southwest of Cape Reinga, is a dramatic landscape of golden sand dunes, rocky outcrops, and rugged coastline overlooking the Tasman Sea.  Separated from Cape Reinga by the expansive Te Werahi Beach, it offers breathtaking views and a serene atmosphere.  This idyllic spot is especially magical at sunset, when the setting sun bathes the landscape in rich, golden hues, creating a warm and enchanting scene.

Te Paki Sand Dunes – Nature’s Sculptures

After spending the night at a DOC campground at Tapotupotu Bay, we set off for another top destination on our list: the Giant Sand Dunes at Te Paki.  These dunes are well-known for people riding down them on boogie boards, much like sledding.  However, we mostly visited to witness the natural forces shaping the landscape.

Exploring the giant sand dunes from mid-afternoon to dusk was a memorable experience.  After the initial climb to the top of the first dune, we were immersed in a desert-like landscape—rolling dunes that seemed to stretch endlessly along the Tasman Sea.  The clouds above shifted rapidly, transitioning from light, fluffy wisps to heavy, dense formations, creating endless opportunities for different compositions.  However, you had to act quickly, as the sunlight on the dunes would disappear as quickly as it appeared.

Sand to Sea - Te Paki Sand Dunes, Northland

From the giant dunes of Te Paki to the Tasman Sea, and from golden sand to sky blue, the lines, textures, layers, and colour contrasts were irresistible.  The ever-changing light played across the dunes, highlighting their soft curves and creating a striking interplay of shadow and brightness.  The vast expanse of sand stretched endlessly, meeting the deep blue of the sea and sky.  Every angle offered a new composition, each one more captivating than the last, making it impossible to look away from the beauty that unfolded at every turn.

Wind's Touch on the Dune - Northland, New Zealand

The wind plays a crucial role in shaping the landscape of the sand dunes, constantly at work to create intricate patterns in the sand and shift the dunes themselves.  These patterns change constantly, transforming with every gust of wind, creating a dynamic, evolving landscape.

Lines in the Sand - Northland, New Zealand

The blend of light and shadow during golden hour at the giant Te Paki dunes creates a captivating landscape rich with texture, curves and lines.

Nature’s Sand Sculpture - Te Paki Sand Dunes, Northland

The warm afterglow of the sunset at the Te Paki Sand Dunes gently illuminates the expansive dunes, casting soft shadows that accentuate the intricate patterns in the sand sculpted by relentless winds.  In the foreground, a weathered, solitary rock is prominently situated, bearing the marks of nature's persistent forces.

The Karikari Peninsula – Hidden Coastal Jewels

On our journey south, a friendly shopkeeper in Kaitaia recommended we detour to Rangiputa on the Karikari Peninsula.  Skipping the well-known Matai Bay, we opted for this lesser-visited beach instead.  Rangiputa’s tranquil waters, soft white sands, and vibrant coastal hues provided an idyllic scene, particularly at sunset.

Sunset at Rangiputa Beach - Karikari Peninsula, Northland

Rangiputa Beach, located on the western side of the Karikari Peninsula, stretches along the sheltered shores of Rangaunu Harbour, creating a peaceful retreat.  The dazzling contrast between the bright sand, vivid blue waters, and surrounding green vegetation makes it a great location for capturing vibrant seascapes.  During sunrise and sunset, the soft light enhances the natural beauty, casting warm tones over the sand and reflecting off the crystal-clear waters.

We continued our journey along Doubtless Bay towards Whangaroa Bay, eventually settling at Taupo Beach for the day.  What a stunning spot—golden sand, blue water with a decent surf, nearby islands, and an abundance of fascinating rock formations.  In other words, a perfect location for photography.  The beach was also teeming with birdlife, including oystercatchers, terns, and dotterels.

Waves and Rocks at Taupo Bay - Northland, NZ

Amidst the rocks and crashing waves at Taupo Beach, my attention was drawn to the striking shape of the rock at the centre of the image—it reminded me of a clown's face or perhaps one of the seven dwarfs.

 

Whangaroa Harbour – Northland’s Serene Inlet

Whangaroa Harbour is celebrated as one of the country's most beautiful and serene natural harbours.  It is a natural harbour, on Northland’s northern coast where the sea extends inland through an inlet formed by a collection of drowned river valleys.  While it is connected to the Pacific Ocean, much of the harbour is sheltered and surrounded by steep hills and rocky outcrops, giving it an enclosed, fjord-like feel.  Nestled between lush, forested hills and dramatic rock formations, it provides a striking blend of natural beauty and tranquillity.

Our first adventure in Whangaroa Harbour took us along the Wairakau Stream Track and up the Duke’s Nose Track, leading to the summit of Duke’s Nose.  The final section was more of a climb than a walk, requiring us to navigate two vertical rock faces with the help of metal bars.  But the effort was well worth it—once at the top, we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views over Whangaroa Harbour.

Quiet Awakening at Whangaroa Harbour - Northland, New Zealand

A tranquil morning at Whangaroa Harbour comes to life as the mist, infused with a warm golden glow from the rising sun, drapes the scene in quiet magic. Beyond the red roof of a boatshed, moored yachts float gently on the glassy water, completing the picture of calm and stillness.

Hiking to St. Paul’s Rock before sunrise revealed a breathtaking panorama of the mist-draped harbour stretching towards the Pacific Ocean.  The ethereal glow of dawn transformed the scene into a painterly masterpiece.  It takes about 30 minutes to walk the steep track to the top of the rock through regenerating manuka bush.  Chains are installed to help you climb the last metres.  The walk and climb are certainly worth the effort, as you'll be rewarded with a 360-degree, panoramic view over the area.

Moon over Whangaroa Harbour - Northland, New Zealand

A pre-sunrise view over Whangaroa Harbour, where the moonlight cast a soft glow, gently illuminating the low-hanging clouds and the boats in the marina below.

Whangaroa Harbour to Ocean - Northland, New Zealand

A view from St Paul's Rock at sunrise over a misty Whangaroa Harbour toward the horizon where the inlet merges with the Pacific Ocean.

 

Bay of Islands – A Photographic Haven

Approaching the Bay of Islands, we transitioned from remote wilderness to a bustling tourist hub.  Though busier than other locations, the region’s beauty remained undeniable.  With its 144 pristine islands, turquoise waters, and stunning coastal landscapes, the region is a delight for photographers, nature lovers, and anyone seeking relaxation or exploration.

Paihia Wharf Sunset - Bay of Islands, New Zealand

An interplay of warm and cool tones unfolds during a sunset at Paihia Wharf, Bay of Islands, where the well-lit wharf stands as a welcoming focal point, its golden glow contrasting with the tranquil surroundings.

Rainbow Falls - Bay of Islands, Northland

Rainbow Falls (Waianiwaniwa) is a stunning 27-metre waterfall located near Kerikeri.  Surrounded by lush native bush, the waterfall plunges into a deep, serene pool, creating a picturesque setting ideal for landscape photography.  Its name comes from the frequent rainbows that appear in the mist when sunlight catches the cascading water.  Easily accessible via a short walking track, Rainbow Falls offers multiple vantage points, including a viewing platform above and trails leading to the base for a closer perspective.

Tapeka Point Beach - Russell, Northland

A beautiful sandy beach near Russell in the Bay of Islands catching the last sun of the day.

Tapeka Point Beach, located just outside Russell in the Bay of Islands, is a secluded and picturesque coastal gem.  There is a short but steep walking track that leads to the Tapeka Point lookout, where visitors are rewarded with sweeping views of the bay and its many islands.

 

Whangārei – The Final Stop

Further south, Whangārei, the largest settlement in Northland, offered one last stop before leaving the region.  We added several waterfalls to our portfolio.

Whangārei Falls - Northland, New Zealand

Otuihau Whangārei Falls is a picturesque 26.3-metre-high waterfall, cascading over basalt cliffs.  It’s easily accessible from the carpark with short circular walks that offer great views from all angles.

Piroa Falls – Northland

Piroa Falls is a stunning, cascading waterfall located just south of Whangārei in Northland, New Zealand.  The falls drop over a series of rocks, creating a beautiful, multi-tiered flow of water.  Surrounded by lush native bush, the area is peaceful and serene, with the sound of water rushing over the rocks adding to the natural ambiance.

 

Reflections on Photographing Northland

As our journey along the Twin Coast Discovery Highway came to an end, we couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible diversity of landscapes we had captured.  From the towering kauri forests and windswept dunes of the west coast to the serene harbours and golden beaches of the east, Northland proved to be a photographer’s paradise at every turn.

This trip reaffirmed that while planning is essential, some of the most memorable photographic moments happen unexpectedly—whether it’s a hidden waterfall, a tip from a local, or the perfect light breaking through the clouds.  Northland’s ever-changing scenery and rich cultural history make it a region that invites both exploration and contemplation.

For anyone seeking to capture the beauty of Aotearoa, Northland offers an endless canvas of inspiration.  Whether it’s your first visit or a return to familiar places, there’s always something new to discover through the lens.


 

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